Dec 03, 2016  New Shop Build: Part 3 - Building a Mr Sawdust Table Tommy Tompkins. Own or are thinking about getting a radial arm saw. History of the Dewalt radial arm saws and goes through the proper.

I am a complete newbie with the radial arm saw. As I learn more about my AMF DeWalt 1030, I plan to add material to this page, hoping that it may give a few pointers to others following the same track.
Before I start, I want to thank and recommend the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, from whose members I learned just about everything I know about radial arm saws. Granted, at the moment, that's not much. But the depth of knowledge on the forum is astounding, and it's perhaps the most helpful forum I've ever had the chance to frequent. And now, the story of how it all began.
Late one night, I was looking for a used circular saw on TradeMe, New Zealand's version of Ebay. I had read strong reviews of a DeWalt circular saw, so I typed in 'DeWalt saw'. At the top of the search results for my small town, there wasn't a handheld circular saw, but there was a massive machine. It loooked like it could cut some wood. I had no idea what a radial arm saw was, but soon discovered that these machines have a strong following, especially older DeWalt models. I drove out to meet the engineer who was parting with his DeWalt for lack of space in his small shop. When he showed me the arm that moved up and down and side to side, and the motor that could swing in two planes, I fell in love. I peeled off twelve twenty New Zealand dollar bills (US$ 185 at the time). We loaded the saw onto the pickup, and I took it home.
That evening, I read everything I could find on the internet about radial arm saws. From what I could understand, this kind of saw, once popular, had fallen into disuse with the general public. It had been displaced by table saws, the very same saws that radial arm saws had once been slated to replace, and by the more recent sliding compound miter saws. One reason for this shift, I read, was that radial arm saws had a reputation for being dangerous. But aren't all saws inherently dangerous? And what would be more dangerous, moving wood over a blade that you don't always see (as with a table saw), or pulling a blade over stationary wood?
Probing deeper, I read that radial arm saws indeed carry some hazards in the hands of hobbyists who haven't received training on their proper use. And in the day of 'buy it now and start using it five minutes later', who gets trained on anything anymore? But if you learned to properly use your radial arm saw, I kept reading, it was as safe as, if not safer than, other powered saws. Well, I certainly wanted to learn to use my saw properly, so that was a relief. I don't know if I'm attached to my fingers, but my fingers are attached to me.
On the Dewalt Radial Arm Saw forum, I read that you could find details about your saw on plates located to the sides of the column and motor. I learned that the motor had been built in 1959 and had 1½ horsepower. The saw was an 'AMF 1030 round arm' model.

A Saw from 1959… Is that bad?

When I saw that my saw's engine was fifty years old, I was less happy with my purchase than I had been a couple hours earlier. Over two hundred dollars for a fifty-year-old saw, is that really a bargain? But the saw worked, and it looked amazingly solid—certainly more solid than the 'made in China' circular saw I would have found in New Zealand for the same price.
Then, reading more, my spirits soared. Actually, 1959 had perhaps been the apex in the history of DeWalt radial arm saws. The company DeWalt, now owned by Black & Decker and famous for quality power tools, had been founded by Raymond DeWalt, the inventor of the radial arm saw. In 1949, American Machine & Foundry (the 'AMF' on my saw) had bought the company and continued to produce saws to exacting standards. But in 1960, AMF had sold DeWalt to Black & Decker. From there, said one source, it had been a 'race to the bottom' as other manufacturers had brought lower-priced products to the market and Black & Decker had made a string of changes to the designs in order to stay competitive.
From what I could gather, my AMF DeWalt 1030 Round Arm was one of the more desirable models in the hobbyist size. It wouldn't swing a twelve-inch blade like models that some pros might prefer, but for my needs, eight to ten inches was probably the perfect size.
I ordered my copy of Mr Sawdust's How to Master the Radial Arm Saw, one of the radial arm saw's cardinal texts, along, for me, with several documents by Roger Hill (see the book section below). I was pleased to read that after a proper reconditioning, one can expect an old DeWalt to last another fifty years. This makes me feel as though I have bought an old Rolls Royce!

The Sound of the Motor

Since the motor is supposed to go another fifty years, you can expect a perfect purr. One time I recorded my motor and became worried because I heard little irregularities here and there (25-second sample):
AMF 1030 round arm without a blade on the arbor.
I asked for feedback on the forum, and it was suggested to me that I might consider changing the motor bearings. So I ordered all the equimpment to do that: bearings, bearing puller, and other tools I'd never heard about.
Oddly enough, the next time I listened to the motor, it purred perfectly. What had happened, I realized, was that the time I made the recording, I must have failed to tighten one of the clamps. Next time I get the chance, I'll record the motor as it now sounds.

Rebuilding the Table

Reading the forum, one of the first things you realize when you start out with an old DeWalt radial arm saw is that you won't get very far unless you build a 'Mr Sawdust table', the table whose design appears in Wallace Kunkel's book, perhaps the closest thing there is to a 'radial arm saw bible' (see the book section). The idea is that in order to turn your saw into a precision instrument, you need a table that is extremely flat and rigid. I did not understand this at first, but 'table' only refers to the top part of the working area. The metal support below the table is called the 'frame'. At first I had worried that I would have to build a whole table, complete with legs, before even starting to use my saw! As it turns out, building the Mr Sawdust table is complex enough.
Mr Sawdust calls for two pieces of three-quarter inch marine-grade or hardwood ply, but these days most forum members use MDF. To make the table rigid, Mr Sawdust sandwiches steel bars between the plywood. Nowadays there is an alternate design using unistrut channel. This is what I used as it was easier to make.
On a separate page, I have made a pictorial of my Mr Sawdust table rebuild.

Parts to restore a DeWalt radial arm saw

Here are places where I have bought parts so far. Many of them were recommended on the forum.
Blade. As recommended on the forum, I rang Charles Bazikian at Forrest Saw Blades and ordered the Forrest Woodworker 1 TCP Blade. For my AMF 1030 round arm, Charles recommended the 9-inch version of the blade. At the time of writing, Charles gave a discount to members of the forum. This extremely friendly gentleman can be reached in the USA at 1-800-733-7111 x314 and advise you about the right blade for your saw. Forrest shipped the blade to New Zealand, along with some literature and a green cap which I love—even though it was made in Bangladesh and added to the shipping charge. According to Mr Sawdust, the WW1 triple chip profile blade is the only blade you will ever need for your radial arm saw. When I paid the $127 for it (minus discount, plus shipping), I mentally added the blade to the cost of the saw: more than half! Little did I know that the overall cost was going to explode. But that's okay, because restoring a radial arm saw is a labor of love.
Anti-kickback assembly. As recommended on the forum, I went to the Original Saw Company, who were kind enough to ship this essential part ($23) to New Zealand. When it arrived, I realized that it didn't ship with a butterfly bolt. I ordered three from McMaster-Carr. This is the best-looking butterfly bolt.
On the Original Saw website, you can see that this is an interesting outfit that continues to produce quality, larger-size radial arm saws (they start at twelve inches and two horsepower). They sent me their catalogue, which is the closest thing there is to an 'erotic mag' for radial arm saw lovers. If the lines of the saws look familiar, it's because the Original Saw Company rescued the old DeWalt large machine casts from a company that had gone bankrupt after buying the DeWalt radial arm saw operation from Black & Decker. (I learned this juicy bit of information on an outstanding document by Roger Hill—see the book section below to download it.)
Red balls. For the miter clamp, I bought this beautiful red phenolic ball for $3.23 on Amazon (shipped by Reid Supply Company). Ball diameter 1'5/8, hole diameter 5/16, 18 threads, brass thread. For the arm clamp, I bought a red ball by the same company (ball diameter 1'7/8, hole diameter 3/8, 24 thread, brass treads). For the column handle, I bought a third red ball (ball diameter 1'7/8, hole diameter 5/8, 18 thread, molded plastic treads). For these red balls, forum members have also recommended a company called MSCDirect.
Pull Knobs. To replace the two red 'pull knobs', I ordered stainless steel knobs recommended by Kent. I measured that they should be 20 thread, 1/4' diameter, 0.4 inch long. They are gorgeous.
Drag Link Socket to remove the King Bolt. I ordered item #55085A32 from McMaster Carr.
Dust Hose. From what I've read on the forum, for an easy replacement, this radiator hose is the item to get (Gates 22006). For overseas shipping, try this company. I've ordered mine and am not sure how it will fit. I'll have to cut it for sure.
Unistrut channel. Bought a 3.8-meter leftover length of 40mm-square galvanized channel, 3mm-thick, from Redpaths electrical in Nelson, New Zealand (NZ$117 including ten 8mm strut channel spring nuts).
MDF for Mr. Sawdust Table. One sheet of 2400x600x18mm MDF from Bunnings, Nelson, New Zealand (NZ$26). 'Ripped' to 43cm (17') along the length, then cut in two one-meter (40') pieces, glued together with wood glue (Franklin Titebond III).
Plywood for table skin / sacrificial top. One sheet of quality 9mm (5/8') ply from ITM Building Centre in Nelson, New Zealand (NZ$32). The salesperson told me it was a 6mm sheet, which is the recommended thickness for the skin. It didn't occur to me that the sheet was much thicker until I got home.
Toggle clamps. Bought these two toggle clamps on Amazon, $13 each.
Motor Bearings. I am told that I might should replace by motor's bearings, and the recommended contact for that is Lynne at Accurate Bearing Company. Kent from the forum recommends the Nachi 6203LL and Nachi 6201LL bearings. I ordered those and received Nachi bearings labelled 6203-2NSE9 and 6201-2NSE9. Lynne explained that 6201-LL is a generic reference, whereas 6201-2NSE9 is the corresponding Nachi product code.
Rollerheald Bearings. For the bearings that travel inside the arm, Kent suggests part #860154-00 directly from DeWalt, not cheap. Accurate may also have an equivalent if you are prepared to take the bearing's measurements. For some reason, the manual lists different part numbers for the centered (22009) and eccentric (101426) bearings, but they look the same to me.
Bolts. Bought from from Black's in Nelson, New Zealand. Probably NZ$50 all up on multiple trips.
One-inch wrench and 5/16' Allen key. You can fiddle with other tools, but these are an ideal fit for the blade assembly. Tried ordering from McMaster as recommended on the forum—they are said to have many quality components and tools—but they wouldn't ship to New Zealand. Bought these tools from Mitre Mega in Nelson, New Zealand (about NZ$30).
Cleaning the column and bearings. Steel wool from Mitre Mega (New Zealand's version of Home Depot), Brasso and mineral turpentine from the supermarket.
On-Off Switch. The old switch started to work in strange ways. After a while, it kept the saw on even in the 'off' position, so I had to turn the saw off at the wall. Fortunately, in New Zealand, all power outlets are switched. When the switch finally died, I decided to treat myself and replace it with a key switch ($41). The benefit is that if I go away for a while and someone has access to the workshop, it makes it a little harder for someone to turn on the saw and make some damage. Here is the key switch I ordered from McMaster. Note that the key is only a square socket, not a security key. My second choice was a simple toggle switch much like the original ($15). Below there's a picture of the switch connection.
Paint. I have read that Rust-Oleum American Accents 7991 Black Granite (clear coat) works great. I have not tried it myself but saw picture of a 1030 round arm painted with it, and it was gorgeous.
Caster Wheels. See the section on casters.
Capacitor. See the section on the smoking motor.

Electrical Diagram

After my traveling carpenter from Berlin fried my saw, I received lots of help on the forum, and most especially from Scott McAuley (see 'smoking motor' below). Without his patient guidance, I don't know what I would have done. After everything was back in order, Scott even drew diagrams of the 1030's wiring for both 110 and 240 volts. I think such diagrams are called 'schematics', but don't quote me on that as I don't understand them.
Scott kindly allowed me to host the diagrams here, so feel free to download them below. It goes without saying that the diagrams come with no warranty whatsoever—use them at your own risk. As Scott says,

That makes a lot of sense to me. My wires might be blue, yours might be brown… and so on.
I think these diagrams are a real treat for all of us in whose garages one of these beautiful DeWalt 1030s somehow happens to roll. Please follow the links to download them.
Schematic for DeWalt 1030 Radial Arm Saw (110 Volts)
Schematic for DeWalt 1030 Radial Arm Saw (240 Volts)

Adjusting the Rollerhead Bearings

This is the first of the adjustments in Mr. Sawdust. It deals with the bearings inside the arm, also known as the rollerhead bearings. It took me ages to understand this adjustment (two months from the first time I looked at it to the time I got it done). There are two main methods, and it took me a while to put it all together. The method I used is the one on page 14 of Scharff, where the adjustment is done while the carriage is still in the arm. In Mr. Sawdust, you take the carriage out.
One thing that threw me off is that the sizes of the nuts and screws in Scharff are all off by about half for my saw's size. Another complication was that I'd never heard of a set screw, a term often mentioned in the instructions. Then I couldn't find the Allen at the bottom.
Here are the steps once you've cleaned everything. First, remove the end plate from the arm. On the 1030 round arm, you'll need a 7/32' Allen wrench. Move the carriage to the front and look at the bearing on the right. You are looking at four things that could potentially be adjusted:
- At the top, above the bearing, a 5/8' hex head. There is no need to touch it, you might scratch the bearing.
- On the side, a 1/8' hex socket. This is the 'set screw' that everyone mentions.
- Below the bearing, in the same axis, there is a 9/16' nut.
- All the way at the bottom, completely opposite the 5/8th hex head, there is an opening for a 5/32' Allen wrench. This opening can only be accessed when the yoke is turned a certain way.
Turn the yoke so that the blade is at the back of the table. We are only adjusting the two bearings on the right, the bearings called 'eccentric'. Starting with the front right bearing, use an Allen key to loosen the 1/8' set screw. Then, using a 9/16' wrench, slightly loosen the nut. Now comes the adjustment. To do this, tighten the screw on the right of the arm so there is no risk that the carriage will fall out of the arm. Insert the 5/32' Allen at the bottom, and fiddle with it very slightly while holding the 9/16th nut in place with the wrench. On the picture, you can see both the Allen wrench at the bottom and the shiny 9/16th wrench above it. Turning clockwise with the Allen (as you look down on it) will tighten the bearing. There is only a hair between tight and loose. When testing if it's too loose, you'll need to loosen the screw on the right of the arm (don't forget to tighten it again when you fiddle with the wrenches again). Press your left thumb against the bearing, push the carriage backward with your right hand. If you can keep the bearing from moving while the motor travels backward, the bearing is too loose.
Once you get it right, tighten the 1/8' set screw, and test again. Then screw the end plate back on.
Now you can adjust the rear right bearing. Move one quarter of a circle counter-clockwise around the table so that you face the side of the arm that has the rip scale. From here, the 9/16' nut is in full view and you can perform the adjustment as for the front right bearing. The rear bearing sounds harder to adjust, but it's not. In fact it's easier because there's no risk of dropping the carriage from the arm.

Cannot Tilt the Blade Horizontally?

On page 45, Mr. Sawdust explains the horizontal blade adjustment, which requires that you tilt the blade parallel to the table. The trouble was that on my saw, the right end of the arbor bumped into the top of the yoke (it was about half an inch too long). I didn't know what to do about this. Would I have to cut the arbor? Would I need to disassemble to motor and somehow shift the pieces along the arbor?
On the forum, it was explained to me that the piece sticking out was not the arbor itself, but rather an adaptor mounted onto the arbor. DeWalt used to sell a number of attachments that could be mounted on the radial arm saw for shaping, boring, sanding and other operations. The adaptor was probably designed for some of these attachments.
Knowing this, the next problem was how to remove the adaptor. Unlike the left side of the arbor, there was no hole for an Allen wrench, no surface on which to grip. Fortunately, an elegant solution was given to me by rob710327 on the forum: to mount two nuts onto the adaptor, then to grip the inside nut with a wrench (while holding the left side of the arbor with a 5/16 Allen key at the end). It worked! For the record, the adaptor required half-inch, 20-thread nuts (right-handed thread).
As soon as I have a spare evening, I will look into the horizontal blade adjustment.

Adjusting the Arm Clamp Handle

On page 14, Scharff explains how to adjust the arm clamp so that the handle points up when the arm is clamped. He says to remove a 'cotter pin'. I tried to remove the pin sticking out of the nut on my saw, thinking that it was the cotter pin. Luckily, people on the forum explained to me that the cotter pin must be missing and pointed to me the groove where the pin is supposed to go.

The local 'bolt barn' had cotter pins, so that was an easy fix. And I learned what a cotter pin is!

Adjusting the Bevel Clamp

On page 18, Scharff explains how to adjust the bevel clamp handle so that you can't rotate the motor when the clamp is engaged. For this job, you need to apply pressure to two half-inch hex heads at the same time (a bolt and a nut). On the picture, I am using a socket wrench and a plain wrench.
First you have to loosen the top nut. Then, in theory, you adjust the bottom bolt then tighten the top nut again. Maybe I am doing something wrong, because I am finding this to be a very finicky adjustment. Eakes says that when the adjustment is right, with the clamp engaged, if you hold the motor in your hands you shouldn't be able to rotate it at all. But when I get the clamp that tight, I also find the motor hard to rotate when it is unclamped. On the other hand, when I get the motor easier to rotate in the unclamped position, I am also able, with force, to rotate the motor when it is clamped. So far I haven't found an easy middle!

Squaring the Blade to the Table

To check if your blade is square to the table when in the crosscut position, make sure you place the square between two teeth of your blade, not on a carbide tip. If the blade is not square to the table, here is the adjustment. First, lock the bevel clamp and engage the bevel latch. Unscrew the bevel's AMF plate. On the photo I also unscrewed the dial gauge but there is no need. If you look where the AMF plate was, you will see three hex socket bolts. Ignore the middle one. Using a 7/32nd Allen wrench, loosen the two outside bolts by two turns. Position yourself above the motor so you have good leverage. Being careful not to cut yourself on the blade, tilt the motor until the blade is square to the table. Tighten the hex socket bolts and replace the AMF plate.

Putting the Saw on Wheels

The saw is heavy. If you have to lift it, you really need two people to move it. So I was really excited to mount the frame on casters. Now a gentle push does it. On the downside, I haven't found a good system to block the table, as there are no brakes on those wheels. The casters bring the table up to a height of 101cm (39 ¾ inches), which is about as high as I'd want it, and I'm pretty tall.
I found those casters at McMaster-Carr's. The gorgeous red goes well with the knobs. If you get the same, You might want to add some thin hex nuts and washers to your order.

Cleaning your Blade

Here is a picture of my blade after eleven weeks of use (and abuse) by a traveling carpenter from Berlin. I don't know if the blade can be restored to its prime condition (the carpenter may have cut through a number of nails), but it sure can be cleaned. Over time, pitch (resins turned black from the heat) accumulates on the blade. On the forum, Paul recommended using a biodegradable cleaner called CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner. It's not available in New Zealand, but Simple Green cleaner is, and it too has a good reputation. Some people use mineral spirits or turpentine. I've read cautions against using a file, oven cleaners or anything else that could start dislodging the carbide teeth from the blade, as it will soon be rotating at high speed.

Replacing the Switch

There's not much to it (see the picture). On one side of the switch, I hooked up the green and black wires. Same on the other side, without crossing. Your wire colors might be different. The connection should be pretty similar regardless of which switch you pick up from McMaster. To tighten the nuts you'll need a wrench with a 9/16' socket. Scroll up or click the link for part numbers and a picture of my key switch.

Smoking Motor

At the end of his eleven-week stay, two days before he left, the traveling carpenter from Berlin fried the saw. I don't know how he did it. I came down and the smell of burnt plastic was unbelievable. He was ripping at the time, and he must have kept pushing and pushing and pushing despite the smell. After he left, the first thing I looked at was the switch. It had been fickle for a while—in fact, the saw was on even in the 'off' position, so we had had to switch the saw on and off at the wall. (In New Zealand, all power outlets are switched.) I bypassed the switch. The motor started. For a few moments, I was very hopeful. But then some smoke started to come out from behind the plate on the motor. (On the small picture you can see smoke at the bottom right, above the black cylinder, which is the old capacitor).
As usual, the gentlemen on the forum were outstandingly helpful. Scott sent me an amazing message with a whole troubleshooting protocol. Part of it was a 'sniff test' to locate the source of trouble. After I sent some pictures, the consensus on the forum was that I should replace the capacitor. If that didn't work, we would look at the start windings, whatever that meant. Well, I didn't know what a capacitor was, but I quickly learned that it was that black cylinder inside the electrical box. I took it out. It did smell burnt. A replacement capacitor was five dollars on McMaster-Carr, but I thought I would look for one locally. In New Zealand, the same capacitor was NZ$49 (about US$40). I ordered three of the five-dollar capacitors from McMaster, doing the usual two-step dance (McMaster doesn't ship to New Zealand so a friend in the States has to receive and repack everything for me.) Two weeks later, a couple points of solder… And my beauty was back in business! You can see on the picture that the case is made of shiny plastic, unlike the cardboard of the original component. I am hopeful that I won't have to deal with the start windings.

Radial Arm Saw Books and PDF Documents

For a jump-start on DeWalt radial arm saws, I highly recommend Roger Hill's eleven-page PDF entitled Some Tips on Radial Arm Saw Reconditioning. It begins with an overview of the evolution of the radial arm saw market, an overview that I find both extremely well written and informative. I am not an expert, and I have not yet performed the adjustments in the second part of the document, but I find it outstanding. The text also seems well liked on the forum. Roger Hill also has a document called The How and Why of Adjusting a DeWalt Radial Arm Saw, available for download to members of the Yahoo Group (see the links section below), and also highly recommended.
Vintage Machinery has a PDF of the manual for the 1030 and several other models. The same site has two documents that may be of interest, but only for historical reference, because the brilliant book in the next paragraph supersedes older material. The two documents are How to Operate and Maintain the DeWalt Saw (1945) and a PDF of DeWalt's Saw Tips Newsletters from 1953 to 1955.
The bible of the DeWalt Radial arm saw cult is Wally Kunkel's How to Master the Radial Arm Saw! Mr. Sawdust (as Kunkel is known) writes in a beautifully direct and personable tone. I am stuck somewhere around page 35 as I haven't finished setting up my table, but I can't wait to move forward. On pages 31 to 36, Wally gives the plan of his famous Mr. Sawdust table, which experts seem to swear by. The book is not cheap ($30), especially considering shipping to New Zealand ($20), but if you're not going to buy it you might as well not start on your restoration project.
Also highly regarded is Jon Eakes' Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw. The book can be found used on Amazon or as a PDF for $14.95 on Jon's website. Jon says that the procedures outlined in his book will set up your radial arm saw to cut to one 128th of an inch. I have not yet followed the process as my table is not complete.
Easy Ways to Expert Woodworking (1956), by Robert Scharff. This book was recommended on the forum. I love that the pictures show a saw that looks an awful lot like my AMF 1030 round arm. The book was published in 1956 (three years before my saw was built), so the pictures probably show the model just before it. Actually, the instruction book for the 1030 saw ends with a full-page ad for Scharff's book!
There is a later book by the same author called Newest Ways to Expert Woodworking (1962). Some editions have Scharff as the author, on mine the cover just says 'by the Editorial Board of B&D / DeWalt'. I assumed that it was much of the same material as Easy Ways, but this is really a different book. Altough some of the text has been reused or slightly rewritten, the focus has shifted. In some ways, it feels more like an ad for DeWalt and Black & Decker products (by that time, Black & Decker had bought DeWalt). Indeed, the entire section about alignment is gone! On the plus side, there are many cool retro pictures of what an American home and workshop looked like in the early 1960s.
The Magic of Your Radial Arm Saw (1983), by R.J. De Cristoforo, is also well liked by forum members. My copy arrived recently. So far, I like it. It seems quite thorough but goes at a slower pace than the other books I've seen, so it's a good intro for people like me, who don't know anything about radial arm saws. There are lots of great pictures, though they show a more recent DeWalt model. The book does not insist on rebuilding a table (like Mr. Sawdust) or on ultra-fine alignment, so I am deciding that it is a good primer, and to use Mr. Sawdust and John Eakes for more accurate, expert advice. I noted that the book's copyright is owned by Black & Decker (who also own DeWalt), and that it was published by Scharff Associates, which connects it to two of the books above.
If you have a Delta radial arm saw, you may want to download a scan of Delta's 1956 book, Getting the Most out of your Radial Arm Saw.
There's a five-page PDF called Tool Tune-Up: Radial Arm Saw. The diagrams are for later saw models.
There's a PDF booklet for sale for ten dollars, called Refurbish Your DeWalt MBF Radial Arm Saw. I haven't seen at it yet.
There is a book by Howard Silken called How to Get the Most out of a Radial Arm Saw. I have not seen it.
There are several radial arm saw books by Roger Cliffe. I borrowed Radial Arm Saw Techniques from the library when I first got my 1030, but didn't get far with it as I hadn't yet done any of the adjustments.

Radial Arm Saw Links

The DeWalt Radial Arm Saw forum is one of those hidden gems of the internet. It is home to a group of amazingly knowledgeable and helpful people. After you register, you will need to wait 24 hours before you can post; time well spent exploring the list of frequently asked questions.
As always with Yahoo groups, the Yahoo Group about DeWalt Radial Arm Saws has a different feel, and features an archive with a few PDF articles.
Kenteroo, a member of the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw forums, has several fantastic blogs where he shows how he restores radial arm saws. Here's one about restoring a DeWalt 925, and one about restoring a DeWalt 236. I plan to try to follow the instructions on Kenteroo's blogs for my 1030.
The forum of the Old Wood Working Machines websites can be searched for threads about various radial arm saw models. Here are three mentioning the 1030 round arm: one about the 1030 bearings, one with some buying tips for the 1030 radial arm saw, and one hailing the 1030 as the most desirable 10' DeWalt radial arm saw ever made.
The following link is a good read about the history of the radial arm saw.
The Mr Sawdust site, where you can order Wally's books, has some tasty (or touching) bits about radial arm saws and works by Wally's sons.
There are a number of blogs about restoration projects:
—Here's a blog about an MBF (look at the top for links to the other entries).
—Here's a wiki about changing the rollerhead bearings on an MBF or MBC.
—Here's a blog called Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw, after the book by Jon Eakes.

Radial Arm Saw Videos

There are quite a few radial saw videos floating around on YouTube. Here are two that I like.
If you haven't seen a radial arm saw in operation, the segment called Crosscutting on a Vintage DeWalt Radial Arm Saw by sonofsawdust (Carl, one one of Wally Kunkel's sons) is pure poetry:

In preparation for aligning my saw, I also enjoyed watching Radial Arm Saw Setup.
Smiles,
Andy

OverviewI have collected this information for many years and have found the information they contain to be priceless in using and setting up the machines properly. I believe this manual will be a valuable resource of knowledge that will provide a lot of helpful information that is often hard to find. My manuals are not photocopies. I maintain a high standard of quality in my reproductions.

Most of the manuals I reproduce look better than their originals. I have professionally digitally edited every page, and removed stains, wrinkles and handwriting.

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All of the manuals are printed on thick white paper to withstand shop wear and tear; they are then comb bound with heavy cover pages so they lie flat on the workbench.